All Chef Should Learn Here’: Modest Turkish Eatery Ranks 4th on Roll of London’s Leading Restaurants.
Whenever compiling a roll of London’s best eateries, one might foresee well-known high-end names. However, nestled near the top among these gastronomic giants is a unpretentious salonu located in a far-flung part of northern London.
An Surprise Honour
The little Turkish spot, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the 4th best restaurant in the metropolis by a influential gastronomic guide. This recognition has left the family totally surprised.
“I am completely astonished,” remarks a family member, referring to his family’s hard graft that led to their modest shop securing such a high spot on a respected 99-strong list.
A Charm of Simplicity
The small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its conversion into a sought-after spot, has retained much of its earlier charm. It seats just more than 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking show, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate space,” comments the owner.
A Namesake Creation: Tantuni
In the end, it’s all about the cuisine, and this eatery more than succeeds. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a moist, juicy quality.
It is then thrown into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in bit by bit. Once the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to take in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is folded neatly inside.
The wrap is typically consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.
Other Than the Basic Tantuni
There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.
When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, giving it a more intense, toastier and less sickly flavour.
Rising Above the Stars
Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.
While two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for less than £25, similar tasting menus at luxury establishments can cost significantly more than that figure.
The Philosophy of Warmth
The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I don’t subscribe to that,” says the owner.
“I believe what is most important is hospitality, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”
The view is shared by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London come to this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the traps of excess, and to show what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.
The Story of Perseverance
Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t work at elite establishments. “I am truly happy of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.
Numerous restaurants require years to find their footing, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.
“Our mum would be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she had a personal life but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these roles made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.
A Accomplishment for the Culture
The restaurant’s success is set to resonate beyond its own doors. “In my opinion a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the greater significance of this gastronomic honour.