Tempting kebabs, fragrant biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with residents and visitors equally praising its superb cuisine.
A Global Honor
In a recent announcement, UNESCO designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a select roster of world cities and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it enters a international community of more than four hundred cities across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of development that sustains urban life".
The honor "is a testament to its profound gastronomic legacy and vibrant culinary scene," as stated by a representative from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to earn a spot in this prestigious list of 70 global destinations internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The honor for this historic city is little surprise to its residents or avid food lovers. Many echo the view that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, chaotic, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is finally in the spotlight for what has perennially shaped its soul: an immense devotion for food.
"'What's for dinner, the method of preparation' is a ongoing discussion from morning until going to bed in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the quality of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The Nawabi City – as it's widely known after its historic affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were created, refined, and elevated to sublime levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were centers of food experimentation, merging Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were created. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was devised to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists ground the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Apart from the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just highlights local ingredients but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Virtually on many street corners, there are small establishments and stalls – lesser-known treasures that are wildly favored by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, throngs of people start gathering from the crack of dawn at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, served in kulhads, along with incredibly soft buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can make their way to a no-frills joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also boasts unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is scientific and demanding. The artisan beats the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing frothy texture.
On chilly mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some though express concern that their younger generation are reluctant to take up the craft.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy puts it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is hoped, will encourage more people globally to discover these stories and experience the city to taste the culinary delights of Lucknow.
